Sunday, June 08, 2008
Pictures from Pavlovsk
Tuesday, June 03, 2008
A Room With a View. . .
Sunday, June 01, 2008
Tere!
Thursday night we left Petersburg headed for Tallinn. We left on overnight train from Vitebsky train station, which I had never been to before, and looks like it came from a Hollywood lot for old European train station.
When we arrived the next morning, we got a guided walking tour of the upper and lower parts of the medieval city, complete with great views from the upper to the lower town. The weather was gorgeous, as it stayed for the whole of both days.
Likewise, we climbed to the top of the tallest church steeple for a different view.

The rest of the time we spent wandering around some in the new city, but mostly in the old town. Souvenirs, good found, friendly people and a neat atmosphere, relaxed despite the tourism, all added to the ambiance of the place.Tallinn definitely gets a big recommend.
Wednesday, May 28, 2008
Going to the Big "V"
Sunday, May 18, 2008
Tsarskoe Selo
The results:



Making Change, Part XXXXII
For that reason, today at the grocery store I thought I was doing well. My total was 158.45 and I handed over 1,000 rubles. As I started to and over the 8 rubles 50 kopecks, the cashier, in a very sharp tone typical for Russian cashiers, informs me that she's "not interested in the little stuff," and gives me all the coins and everything.
I understand nothing about this place. . .
Sunday, May 11, 2008
May 9 Holiday


In Russia, May 9, the holiday celebrating victory against Germany in the war is still a big deal. Our first morning here was the parade and such in Palace Square. The first picture is Nevskii Prospect, closed off to help get people to the square. The second is a picture of part of the parade, which was really hard to get a spot to see from, even for someone as tall as me.
Otherwise, things are going fine. The hotel/apartment where we are staying is spartan, but fine for six weeks. The other people on the program seem cool. We've had a couple of days to get acclimatized and now we have our first day of class at Smolnyi sobor' tomorrow.
Tuesday, May 06, 2008
End of the Semester and Back to Russia
Even greater, though, I'm off to exciting Morocco after Russia for about six weeks to stay with Molly and possibly teach English a little. No matter what I do, she and I are going to have a great time there!
Look for new updates from Russia soon!
Thursday, April 03, 2008
Kiva
Check it out!
Friday, March 28, 2008
Putin Debate Comes to Chapel Hill
A freshman seminar on Russian history and politics was to hold a debate on the pros and cons of the Putin presidency, which de jure ends on May 7. It was very impressive to find a group of twenty 17-18-19 year-olds who had read and begun to form opinions about issues as diverse as economics, civil liberties, and press freedom. I also found it heartening that they were able to draw comparisons with issues and events from the US and the world I honestly didn't expect them to know or care about.
They were probably 10 or 12 years old when Bush "looked into Putin's eyes and saw his soul" and found a man he "could do business with," but that was one among the many events they evoked (this one, of course, contra-Putin).
Sunday, March 23, 2008
Morocco Pics
Nicole's Pictures from Morocco Scroll down to and find the Morocco pics in the big group at the bottom.
Joanna's
I'm glad we all got to hang out in Morocco and thanks guys for getting pictures up!
Saturday, March 22, 2008
Journalism, (n.) a very dangerous profession
Not a Good Sign
Wednesday, March 19, 2008
Travels of the Non-Russian Variety
This past week was Spring Break at UNC. Conventional wisdom says that grad students don't actually get vacation, only some extra time to work. I broke the rules though, and bought a ticket a while back to visit Molly in Rabat for the week, leaving on a Thrursday and returning the following Sunday: I'll tell you one thing - nine days in Morocco is not enough even to begin to see all it has to offer.
Little did I know when I bought my tickets back in December that there would be an American Home Reunion, Morocco Style in March. It worked out that Nicole, Joanna, and I were all coming to visit Molly and Eric, who lives in a different Moroccan city, Meknes. It was great to catch up with everybody and we had a great time handing out. Its hard to believe that after nearly a year together we had not seen each other eight months!
Highlights of the trip abound.
I had never been surfing before, but thanks to Molly's connections at the Oudaya Surf Club, we got a lesson on morning. The lesson: surfing is hard!
Another trip took Molly, Nicole, and I on a train to Meknes where we planned to meet Eric and Joanna. Turns out we didn't have to wait that long, as they were on the same train! After a night at Eric's place, the following day we took a train an hour further East to Fez, a city famous for its medina. A media is a walled city, often with crazy winding streets, a continuous market of everyday goods, antique stuff, food, and tourist souvenirs blended into a whirlwind of sights, sounds, and smells that are not easy to forget.
After another night at Eric's we took a short car ride north of Meknes to visit Volubilis, the site of Roman ruins that date back nearly 2,000 years. I had never seen anything like it. Sited on a high spot in a lush valley of wheat fields and olive groves, it was easy to imagine it as it might have appeared, a bustling and prosperous town of thousands of people with all the hallmarks of the Roman way of life.
Another favorite part of the visit is the food. In addition to the well known dish couscous, Morocco has great pastries. Think French, only with the occasional North African touch and really cheap! Think delicious pain chacolat for less than fifty cents!
Language is another amazing part of Morocco. As Molly has told me from her experiences teaching and meeting Moroccans, they seem born linguists. In addition to the local Arbaic language, Darija, or Berber educated Moroccans often speak standard Arabic and French, languages of education, business, government, and culture. One also doesn't have to look far to find English speakers, many of them with excellent accents and commands of English is a third or fourth language!
In all, it was great to see Molly's school, meet her friends, see the great little apartment in the Casbah, the oldest part of Rabat right next to the sea, that she shares with Anya. (Thanks Anya for putting up with us!) The climate is beautiful, the people friendly, living is inexpensive and I am looking forward to returning this summer!
P.S. Sorry for the lack of pictures, I'm working on that!
Saturday, February 16, 2008
Russian Politics
It seems as if Medvedev is projecting a more liberal image that befits a focus more toward legal reforms, social problems, and economic issues and away from the raw power of the former KGB and FSB elements in the Kremlin. We shall see...(a common refrain of mine when I think about Russia these days.)
Friday, February 01, 2008
Semester #2
My other class is in Global History, where so far we are looking at wide scope theoretical models and categories of analysis, as well as the interchange between geographical areas in History and social science fields.
I'm continuing to take Russian and this semester I added a class to help me for a French exam that I will need to pass to fulfill my 2nd language requirement.
I also found out this week that I will get to go to Russia, back to St. Petersburg, for about two months in May and June this year. I'm really excited!
Monday, January 28, 2008
An American Political Aside
As you can easily tell from what I write about, I am to a certain extent a politics and news junkie. With the Presidential primary season in full gear, I got into the act and got involved.
I've lived my whole life in Indiana, a state that neither holds a relevant primary nor is traditionally in play come general election time. (Know the last Dem to carry IN? His name was Lyndon Baines Johnson and it was over 40 years ago.) That means that, largely from despair and not seeing it in action, I've never gotten active in a Presidential election before.
Fast forward to me living here in North Carolina. NC isn't voting yet, but its neighbor, South Carolina is. Or was, on this past Saturday. Earlier in the week I got an e-mail asking people to come volunteer to work as get-out-the-vote (GOTV) volunteers for the Obama campaign, and so I met some like-minded local people here from Chapel Hill and we formed a carpool. (Thanks to Linda, Erica, Carole, and Brian for making my first foray into political volunteering a great experience.)
We left the Chapel Hill area at 5:30am Saturday and got to Florence,SC after 8:00. The polls were open from 7-7, but I guess waking people up asking them to vote at 7:00am on a Saturday is a good may to make people mad! The Obama headquarters in Florence was nothing more than a house with some computers, posters, and some donuts and coffee from Krispy Kreme. Oh yeah, and hordes of people coming in to help! In addition to about 50 people from the Triangle area here in NC, there were 30 students from Howard University, and assorted individuals and small groups from a handful of different states, including a guy with a heavy British accent and a gentleman from Seattle who had also been to volunteer in New Hampshire and Nevada. He despaired that he might be a bad luck charm, as Obama narrowly lost NH and lost the popular vote while winning the delegate count in NV. His fears, however, would prove unfounded.
Because of the large turnout, our group of five volunteered to go back out into the rainy cool morning and drive about 20 minutes to a small town, Hartsville, where they didn't have as many out-of-state volunteers. Hartsville turned out to be a town of about 7500 people and with a small college in the town.
We spent the day going in groups of two or three to remind people of the primary, encourage them to vote, and arrange for transportation if they couldn't get to the polling place on their own. We weren't going door to door. Instead they wanted "targeted GOTV:" we had a list of people in a given precinct who they thought would be likely Obama voters and sent us to them. I have to admit I was a little puzzled at times, because in some situations the information was clearly out of date, which was a bit frustrating.
What wasn't frustrating was the result. Personally, we got a few more votes out. I especially remember one woman who thought we were selling something: "We don't want any." Then, when she realized we were from the Obama campaign, she was a little embarrassed to admit that she had forgotten it was primary day, but earnestly promised to go by and vote on her way to work. Statewide the results were great: not the 5-6-7% win the pre-election polls had predicted, but a 55%-27% win and better than expected showings in practically every demographic. (And, he won the county we worked in, Darlington, with 64%!)
Here's where a little hindsight would have come in handy. At about 6:00, the polls were going to be open for another hour, but the chances of getting to much more result were pretty slim. The town Obama organizer asked us to do just a little more, but also understood we had been at it all day and could beg off if we wanted. We also knew that Obama was set to give a victory speech in Columbia, an hour's drive away.
We did "the right thing" and went back out.
We also went to Columbia.
We also got left at the threshold...
...in line about 30 yards from the door when the fire-marshall stopped letting people in. If only we'd left a little earlier, we'd have gotten in to be a part of a raucous crowd and hear live a man who is, in my opinion, one of the most impressive speakers of our time. The speech was great. I know: we listened in the parking lot before embarking on a drive home that ended n Chapel Hill at almost 2:00 am.
While the drive to Columbia might seem futile, it wasn't. I was glad that we got just a little bit of the atmosphere: electric. People only talking about one thing. Thousands of different people, all coming together, a diverse bunch of Americans, all celebrating something great that I hope will catapult Barack Hussein Obama into a fancy new house in D.C. and this country off the awful drifting course its on now and get it moving in the right direction.
Can we do it? Yes we can!
Thursday, January 24, 2008
It's Been a While
As for Russia, well, as you probably know, we have an heir apparent. No surprises, although I was a little surprised that the decision became public as early as it did, months before the March election. It seems like they are aiming for a seamless official transfer of power, without much real change.
Any opposition candidates (Kasyonov, Kasparov, Zhyugonov, et.al.) are finding tough sledding in their attempts to get registered, run, and find air time for their campaigns. I fail to understand why the authorities feel the need to quash opposition when they would win even in a fair election.
Friday, December 07, 2007
Elections
Wow, what a shocker.
The real quiz is what will happen with the Russian presidency in the Spring, when Putin is constitutionally compelled to give up his seat in the Kremlin, but doesn't seem ready to give up his power and seat at the decision-making table.
Sunday, November 25, 2007
Free Rice...
Check it out: Free Rice.com
Monday, November 19, 2007
Thanksgiving is Almost Here
It's hard to believe that a year ago we were preparing for the madness that was our American home teacher collective bid to make Thanksgiving dinner. It turned out pretty well in the end, but most of all I remember being totally exhausted by the time is was over. To all of out there who do it every year, every holiday! Here's to you, preparers of Turkey Day feasts!
In the news, Russian Duma elections are looming closer. The old Duma has adjourned and the current squabble is with the Organization for Security and Cooperation in Europe (OSCE) who typically sends election observers. "Not so fast!" the Russian government says. "We're not going to give you visas yet!"
Oh, how things always stay interesting!
Tuesday, November 06, 2007
Another Killer Fact...Actually a Hypothesis...
The other day we were discussion the last years of Josef Stalin's life and his relationship with those around him: largely sycophants and lightweights that Stalin found easy to manipulate.
However, like most things, it's not that easy. Stalin died in March 1953, apparently of a brain hemorrhage, despite relatively good health for a man of his age. While death by natural causes is largely accepted as the true reason for his death, there is a small but significant amount of evidence that someone from amongst his inner circle did him in in order to avoid a gathering purge of the leadership at Stalin's bidding.
It's not hard to imagine. These were men who had seen and taken part in the havoc that Stalin wrought on others, secret police chief Beriia was himself the chief agent of some of the purges. If they felt threatened, it's not hard to imagine the man who controlled Stalin's residences and body guards taking a page from Stalin's own playbook.
I guess it just goes to show you that being an evil dictator has its occupational hazards too!
Thursday, November 01, 2007
November Already!
On Russian matters, there's about a month left until Russia holds parliamentary elections. There's little doubt which party will win, but nonetheless there is still bickering over allowing foreign observers in for pre-election observation.
On a more personal level, I'm going to be continuing to study Russian in the spring and I hope to have an opportunity to spend six weeks or so in St. Petersburg this summer. It should be fun!
Now for a killer fact update!
Moscow: it's big, but you already knew that. In terms of population, it's got a little over 13 million people. If you toss in likelihood of 1-1.5 million people who live or work there undocumented, it comes out to fully 1/10th of Russia's population. Comparing to the US, it's as if you rolled NYC, LA, and Washington DC all into one and, if it had the same percentage of the country's population, would have about 30 million people!
As it relates to what I've been studying lately, Moscow was one of three main Nazi targets (along with St. Petersburg/Leningrad and the resource-rich lands of the south and Caucasus) when they invaded in June 1941. They reached the outskirts of Moscow, with the closest advances of the Wehrmacht reaching within 40 km of the Kremlin.
Sunday, October 21, 2007
Climate Killer Facts
Two things:
(1) Siberia is home to the place with coldest recorded tempurture, almost -100°F. According to Wikipedia (yeah, I know - I'm taking their workd for it) in January 1926 a temperature of -71.2 °C, or -96.1 F, was recorded at Oymyakon, Sakha Republic.
(2)Farther south, where the Trans-Siberian Railway runs, the climate is much warmer, reaching comfortable temperatures and summers long enough for agriculture. Despite this, the mean annual temperature is still 0°C, 32°F.
The moral, even though it's not a snowy frozen waste year round (I have pictures to prove it) it's still really, really extreme!
Thursday, October 11, 2007
Websites of World Significance
world.) I was thinking of the White House and it's website www.whitehouse.gov.
That got me thinking: "I wonder what Putin's website looks like?" Well, here
it is: www.kremlin.ru. (Thanks
Google!)
If you want to know a little more about the
physical Kremlin, try this one: History of the Kremlin and
other stuff.
Here's a Killer Fact: The Kremlin was a symbol of power in Russia even during the two hundred year hiatus during which the Tsars (and ruling Tsarinas) lived in Petersburg. They continued to be crowned in the Uspensky Sobor'(Assumption Cathedral) and to lavish money and talent to update the architecture of the palaces and government buildings within the red brick walls.
Tuesday, October 02, 2007
Putin's Next Move
I'm waiting a while before I'll try to say what this means, but the picture is starting to clear up. It seems that Putin wants to have all of his ducks in row long before it comes to elections. It's not as if United Russia needs his help, but this begins to cement his position for the Post-Putin-Presidency Era. (PPP, if you will.)
Sunday, September 23, 2007
September's Almost Gone
going well, but there is lots to do! Reading, writing, researching,
learning Russian are all part of the game. The biggest part of what I'm
learning is historiography, the history of the study of history! As
Molly said, "It's so meta!"
As for Russia, it's still in the news. The latest shakeup is near the top, when Putin axed his PM and replaced him with a surprise, obscure candidate. My first thought upon
hearing that Fradkov was out was that Putin had decided to make his successor choice obvious early by picking one of the two main rivals, Medvedev or Ivanov. Instead we get Zubkov, a bureaucrat and manager from way back in the pack.
Only time will tell what this means for Russia.
Tuesday, August 21, 2007
Finally, an Update from the States!
A middle-of-the-night drive to Sheremetevo and a couple of hours of waiting found Molly and I on separate flights to separate cities in Germany and then to the States. Suffice it to say, we made it safely, but we were exhausted. I've never been so exhausted in my life! As bad as this picture looks, I felt worse!A whirlwind couple of days in New York City with my sister was followed by a few more days with my parents at home in Indiana. Finally, I arrived here in Chapel Hill, NC last Thursday. I begin my graduate career tomorrow, on the first day of class here at UNC. I'm excited about the chance to take three history seminars and a Russian class at neighboring Duke in Durham, a few miles' bus ride down the road.
Since I'm no longer in Russia, the best I can do is find news and talk a little about what I'm learning. The first installment is about something many take for granted that can never be assumed in Russia: hot water.
Been
There
Wednesday, August 01, 2007
Long-Delayed Update
Wednesday, July 11, 2007
To Irkutsk...and Beyond!
As for Irkutsk, its a pretty cool city. There are lots of old buildings in the center of the city where are hostel is. That said, it's also clearly a Soviet-Russian city with its industry and fair share of ugly buildings. There's also a lot of influence from East Asia, with Asian cars, products, and people everywhere.
We're leaving tomorrow morning to begin two weeks of camping and working near Lake Baikal. We're going to be near a small village called Tankhoi. It might be a while before I get to post again.
Thursday, July 05, 2007
Last Vladimir Post
It's hard to imagine that almost a year has passed, but today is my last day of living in Vladimir. Tonight, Molly and I are catching a train to begin our month in Siberia before we return to the States. Since I wrote last my birthday passed; my parents, sister and family friend visited Moscow, Vladimir, and Petersburg and have safely returned home; and I have packed stuff and said goodbye to people for about three days straight Not surprisingly, they really enjoyed Petersburg and I think they now have a better idea of why I am so interested in Russia. (Even if they think me a little crazy still.)
I will try to update a time or two from Siberia, but I'm not sure when or where I'll be able to use the Internet. After three days in Irkutsk, we are embarking on a two week camping trip near Lake Baikal. As you can imagine, no Internet.
Friday, June 22, 2007
Thursday Picnic
Tuesday, June 19, 2007
Sunday, June 17, 2007
Blinni and a(nother) Russian Institution
Yesterday was a Saturday afternoon. We spent it, as we usually do when the weather is overcast and a little cool, at the American Home. It was a little unique because we began pulling our personal things out of our little cubbie-holes and storage spaces, only to be confronted with the fact that we either have to cart home to the States or get rid of a lot of STUFF! It's going to be interesting.
We also made a nice dinner which included Russian blinni (Thanks for cooking blinni, Molly!) and followed it up with another Russian favorite, some Cheburashka cartoons. Cheburashka is a little creature of unknown origin who cutely popped out of an orage crate and makes an appearence in four short stop-motion animation films from the Soviet '70s. He's cute; befriends an easy-going crocodile names Gena; is sometimes foiled by the quasi-evil, but strangely grandmotherly, Shapaklyak; and learns many life lessons. It's cute, and despite the fact that there is barely an hour of existing films, he is wildly popular over 30 years after his creation. (If you look closely at Olympic footage, you'll see him as a sort of mascot for Russian teams in both of the last two Olympiads.) You can read more about him here: Wikipedia, giver of knowledge.
This is also the source of one of may favorite sentences in the Russian language, which goes like this: Жил в городе крокодил. Его зовут Гена. Он работал в зоопарке крокодилом. (There lived in the city a crocodile. His name is Gena. He worked at the zoo as a crocodile.)
So, with that our semester is winding down. My parents and sister are in London now and will be here on Saturday to visit, which is still hard to believe. These next two weeks are going to be crazy!
Tuesday, June 12, 2007
I'm Scary!
Me: "My name is Aaron. How are you?" Her: Nothing.
Me: "Where do you go to school?" Her: Nothing.
Me: "What are you doing right now?" Her: You guessed it, nothing.
Me, in Russian: "That's fine. Do you have any questions you'd like to ask?" Her: Nothing.
Me: "Okay, it was nice talking to you."
Saturday, June 09, 2007
Flowers of June
Last weekend when we went to Sergeev Posad, one of the things I had plenty of chance to take pictures of were flowers. Everything was in full bloom and beautiful. My pictures were helped by the fact the it was clear and sunny, without a cloub in the sky. In short a perfect day to snap some pictures.
Tuesday, June 05, 2007
Sunday Day-trip
In all, it was a relaxing, beautiful day that I think we all really enjoyed. I know that I'm enjoying summer, but the time is going very fast. We have barely three weeks left to teach! Yikes!
Saturday, June 02, 2007
The Family is Coming, The Family is Coming!
After a whirlwind tour of London and Paris, Mom; Dad; my sister, and a family friend are coming to Russia! They'll be in Moscow for a few days, then to Vladimir for a short stay and then on to St. Petersburg as the last stop on the voyage.
I'm really excited that they are coming: now they can maybe understand why I've come to Russia twice! I'm going to try and be the best tour guide/interpreter that I can be, but unfortunately they're arriving right at the end of our summer semester here at the AH, which is always a crazy time.
As for that, we had midterm exams for the summer semester yesterday, so today will mostly be spent hanging out and grading them. So far they seem to be doing okay. They need to be graded today because tomorrow we're teaming up with some students and taking a trip to Sergeev Posad, which is a town famous for its monastaries and beautiful churches. I think that we're going to take a picnic lunch and make a day out of it. It will be a long day, but with the cooler weather that we're having, it should be very enjoyable.





