Friday, June 20, 2008

Novgorod

The group took a day trip to Novgorod, which is several hours on a bus. Lunch was great and, even though I've been there, I had fun.









































This one is essentially the pimp-ride of the Soviet era, a long black limo that bureaucrats and bigwigs got as a perk of the job. Now doing duty as a wedding transportation and I have to say it is much better than a stretch Hummer that is the usual fare.

Monday, June 16, 2008

"Daytripper"

A fairly large group of us took an elektrichka (suburban communter train) trip on Sunday to Vyborg, which is the last city before you get to the Finnish border. It was for a long time part of Finland, but was taken by the Soviet Union in the course of the Winter War of 1939-40 and WWII. It has an old castle from the 14th century and then an old town with buildings ranging mostly from the 18th to the early 20th centuries. I especially like the Art Nouveau style, which is represented below. The town is not large, there's not tons to do, and it rained most of the day, but it was still cool to get out and see something new.























,




Also, Lenin:

Cruisin'

Last Thursday, June 12, was "Russia Day" a holiday of recent origin that marked the day that the Russian Federation claimed sovereignty from the Soviet Union. We took advantage of the day off to arrange a night-time cruise on the Neva, under the night skies and raised bridges. It was raining when we left the hotel at midnight, but by the time we made it to the center of the city and got on our boat, it turned out beautiful. The pictures won't do it enough justice - but here they are:








Sunday, June 08, 2008

Pictures from Pavlovsk

The group went to Pavlovsk on Saturday morning, beautiful and sunny, but chilly. As I had already been to the palace before, myself and a couple of others skipped out and went for a walk in the large imperial park that goes with it. The pictures turned out pretty well, but they hardly do justice to the beauty of the day.
























There was this tree, a huge hollow in the middle. It's amazing that its still alive!














And this picture of some crazy guy:













Also: baby ducklings:

Tuesday, June 03, 2008

A Room With a View. . .

. . .of a typical Russian apartment building, as seen from the window of our hotel. It may look like the projects, but people keep their personal spaces very neat and clean.

Sunday, June 01, 2008

Tere!

Thursday night we left Petersburg headed for Tallinn. We left on overnight train from Vitebsky train station, which I had never been to before, and looks like it came from a Hollywood lot for old European train station.






When we arrived the next morning, we got a guided walking tour of the upper and lower parts of the medieval city, complete with great views from the upper to the lower town. The weather was gorgeous, as it stayed for the whole of both days.






Likewise, we climbed to the top of the tallest church steeple for a different view.











Tallinn had tons of little shops, restaurants, and cafes along the narrow, winding streets of the Old Town.  



















The rest of the time we spent wandering around some in the new city, but mostly in the old town. Souvenirs, good found, friendly people and a neat atmosphere, relaxed despite the tourism, all added to the ambiance of the place.

Tallinn definitely gets a big recommend.

Wednesday, May 28, 2008

Going to the Big "V"

Last weekend I took a train to Vladimir, where I spent last year teaching English at the American Home. I found that little had changed. The Golden Gate is still where it used to be:








The Coffee Bean, the best coffee shop in Russia, is still open:











Sara is enjoying her year as "lead teacher," pictured here at said cafe:








Cafe Pizza is still in business:











Went to visit Nina Petrovna.  Her cats are as crazy as ever:


  Also, her blinni are as delicious as ever.





The only noteworthy addition is a large statue of Vladimir, the founder of the city, I guess.  Perhaps it is a different Vladimir:

In all, people haven't changed much, it was nice to see and talk with the people I knew from the American home and around town.  I have to admit, that even though I was only there for two days and the weather was horrible, I felt no small amount of nostalgia for my little slice of the "real" Russia.

Sunday, May 18, 2008

Tsarskoe Selo

I've been to Tsarskoe Selo, also known as Pushkin, and its palace before. Our group went last Thursday and so I went along to just take pictures and have fun.

The results:













Also, I came away with a scarf for "Zenit," the local football team which won a major European championship last week and is kind of the talk of the town right now.

Making Change, Part XXXXII

So, if you've read my blog before, you've probably heard me complain about making change: breaking a 1000 ruble note (about 40 bucks) is really hard and cashiers generally complain if you don't have correct change.

For that reason, today at the grocery store I thought I was doing well. My total was 158.45 and I handed over 1,000 rubles. As I started to and over the 8 rubles 50 kopecks, the cashier, in a very sharp tone typical for Russian cashiers, informs me that she's "not interested in the little stuff," and gives me all the coins and everything.

I understand nothing about this place. . .

Sunday, May 11, 2008

May 9 Holiday


In Russia, May 9, the holiday celebrating victory against Germany in the war is still a big deal. Our first morning here was the parade and such in Palace Square. The first picture is Nevskii Prospect, closed off to help get people to the square. The second is a picture of part of the parade, which was really hard to get a spot to see from, even for someone as tall as me.

Otherwise, things are going fine. The hotel/apartment where we are staying is spartan, but fine for six weeks. The other people on the program seem cool. We've had a couple of days to get acclimatized and now we have our first day of class at Smolnyi sobor' tomorrow.

Tuesday, May 06, 2008

End of the Semester and Back to Russia

I finished my first semester of grad school last Friday. It's so hard to believe the first year had come and gone, it went so quickly. I'm leaving on Wednesday morning for Russia. I will be in St. Petersburg from May 8-June 26 for a summer language program and hope to update some about the city and anything else I come up with. May 9th and Victory Day, plus trips to Tallinn, Estonia, Moscow and, hopefully, Vladimir are on the agenda, but no matter what I do I think it will be great.

Even greater, though, I'm off to exciting Morocco after Russia for about six weeks to stay with Molly and possibly teach English a little. No matter what I do, she and I are going to have a great time there!

Look for new updates from Russia soon!

Thursday, April 03, 2008

Kiva

If you have a few spare bucks: $25,$50, check out Kiva. It's an organization that brings together donors and microcredit organizations representing individuals. You can choose a country and an individual person in Africa, Asia, Latin America and so on to loan your money to help them get their small business off the ground.

Check it out!

Friday, March 28, 2008

Putin Debate Comes to Chapel Hill

Yesterday my adviser, Dr. Raleigh, and most of the other Russian-ists were out of town at a conference, so I volunteered to supervise his two undergraduate classes. It didn't require much time, but one of them was especially impressive.

A freshman seminar on Russian history and politics was to hold a debate on the pros and cons of the Putin presidency, which de jure ends on May 7. It was very impressive to find a group of twenty 17-18-19 year-olds who had read and begun to form opinions about issues as diverse as economics, civil liberties, and press freedom. I also found it heartening that they were able to draw comparisons with issues and events from the US and the world I honestly didn't expect them to know or care about.

They were probably 10 or 12 years old when Bush "looked into Putin's eyes and saw his soul" and found a man he "could do business with," but that was one among the many events they evoked (this one, of course, contra-Putin).

Sunday, March 23, 2008

Morocco Pics

So, as promised, I have some links to others' pictures from Morocco.

Nicole's Pictures from Morocco Scroll down to and find the Morocco pics in the big group at the bottom.

Joanna's

I'm glad we all got to hang out in Morocco and thanks guys for getting pictures up!

Saturday, March 22, 2008

Journalism, (n.) a very dangerous profession

Journalism in Putin's Russian proves yet again to be a dangerous profession. I guess we can only hope that journalists in Medvedev-ian Russia will find a safer work environment. Effective journalism is one of the ways to guarantee a free and civil society. American journalism is far from perfect, as evidenced by the need for bloggers and non-professionals to take up the slack left by too many Britney Spears stories. However, Americans are lucky that journalists are largely safe from threats such as this:

Not a Good Sign

Wednesday, March 19, 2008

Travels of the Non-Russian Variety

I know this is a Russia blog and all, but when I travel I want to tell people about it. So, here goes:

This past week was Spring Break at UNC. Conventional wisdom says that grad students don't actually get vacation, only some extra time to work. I broke the rules though, and bought a ticket a while back to visit Molly in Rabat for the week, leaving on a Thrursday and returning the following Sunday: I'll tell you one thing - nine days in Morocco is not enough even to begin to see all it has to offer.

Little did I know when I bought my tickets back in December that there would be an American Home Reunion, Morocco Style in March. It worked out that Nicole, Joanna, and I were all coming to visit Molly and Eric, who lives in a different Moroccan city, Meknes. It was great to catch up with everybody and we had a great time handing out. Its hard to believe that after nearly a year together we had not seen each other eight months!

Highlights of the trip abound.

I had never been surfing before, but thanks to Molly's connections at the Oudaya Surf Club, we got a lesson on morning. The lesson: surfing is hard!

Another trip took Molly, Nicole, and I on a train to Meknes where we planned to meet Eric and Joanna. Turns out we didn't have to wait that long, as they were on the same train! After a night at Eric's place, the following day we took a train an hour further East to Fez, a city famous for its medina. A media is a walled city, often with crazy winding streets, a continuous market of everyday goods, antique stuff, food, and tourist souvenirs blended into a whirlwind of sights, sounds, and smells that are not easy to forget.

After another night at Eric's we took a short car ride north of Meknes to visit Volubilis, the site of Roman ruins that date back nearly 2,000 years. I had never seen anything like it. Sited on a high spot in a lush valley of wheat fields and olive groves, it was easy to imagine it as it might have appeared, a bustling and prosperous town of thousands of people with all the hallmarks of the Roman way of life.

Another favorite part of the visit is the food. In addition to the well known dish couscous, Morocco has great pastries. Think French, only with the occasional North African touch and really cheap! Think delicious pain chacolat for less than fifty cents!

Language is another amazing part of Morocco. As Molly has told me from her experiences teaching and meeting Moroccans, they seem born linguists. In addition to the local Arbaic language, Darija, or Berber educated Moroccans often speak standard Arabic and French, languages of education, business, government, and culture. One also doesn't have to look far to find English speakers, many of them with excellent accents and commands of English is a third or fourth language!

In all, it was great to see Molly's school, meet her friends, see the great little apartment in the Casbah, the oldest part of Rabat right next to the sea, that she shares with Anya. (Thanks Anya for putting up with us!) The climate is beautiful, the people friendly, living is inexpensive and I am looking forward to returning this summer!

P.S. Sorry for the lack of pictures, I'm working on that!

Saturday, February 16, 2008

Russian Politics

As the Russian Presidential election quickly approaches, I keep asking the same questions of the news I read: Will anything change with the nominal transition from Putin to Medvedev? Will Medvedev be able to influence policies?

It seems as if Medvedev is projecting a more liberal image that befits a focus more toward legal reforms, social problems, and economic issues and away from the raw power of the former KGB and FSB elements in the Kremlin. We shall see...(a common refrain of mine when I think about Russia these days.)

Friday, February 01, 2008

Semester #2

I haven't written at all about my new semester and new courses. This semester I am have a different load of classes. First is the required seminar for History grad students, HIST 900, in which we work on our own personal research, in order to produce an original article length piece by the end of the semester. My research is about public opinion in the Soviet Union, specifically about a poll from May 1960 when a group of Soviet citizens were surveyed on their opinions on the chances for peace between East and West.

My other class is in Global History, where so far we are looking at wide scope theoretical models and categories of analysis, as well as the interchange between geographical areas in History and social science fields.

I'm continuing to take Russian and this semester I added a class to help me for a French exam that I will need to pass to fulfill my 2nd language requirement.

I also found out this week that I will get to go to Russia, back to St. Petersburg, for about two months in May and June this year. I'm really excited!

Monday, January 28, 2008

An American Political Aside

Fired up? Ready to go!

As you can easily tell from what I write about, I am to a certain extent a politics and news junkie. With the Presidential primary season in full gear, I got into the act and got involved.

I've lived my whole life in Indiana, a state that neither holds a relevant primary nor is traditionally in play come general election time. (Know the last Dem to carry IN? His name was Lyndon Baines Johnson and it was over 40 years ago.) That means that, largely from despair and not seeing it in action, I've never gotten active in a Presidential election before.

Fast forward to me living here in North Carolina. NC isn't voting yet, but its neighbor, South Carolina is. Or was, on this past Saturday. Earlier in the week I got an e-mail asking people to come volunteer to work as get-out-the-vote (GOTV) volunteers for the Obama campaign, and so I met some like-minded local people here from Chapel Hill and we formed a carpool. (Thanks to Linda, Erica, Carole, and Brian for making my first foray into political volunteering a great experience.)

We left the Chapel Hill area at 5:30am Saturday and got to Florence,SC after 8:00. The polls were open from 7-7, but I guess waking people up asking them to vote at 7:00am on a Saturday is a good may to make people mad! The Obama headquarters in Florence was nothing more than a house with some computers, posters, and some donuts and coffee from Krispy Kreme. Oh yeah, and hordes of people coming in to help! In addition to about 50 people from the Triangle area here in NC, there were 30 students from Howard University, and assorted individuals and small groups from a handful of different states, including a guy with a heavy British accent and a gentleman from Seattle who had also been to volunteer in New Hampshire and Nevada. He despaired that he might be a bad luck charm, as Obama narrowly lost NH and lost the popular vote while winning the delegate count in NV. His fears, however, would prove unfounded.

Because of the large turnout, our group of five volunteered to go back out into the rainy cool morning and drive about 20 minutes to a small town, Hartsville, where they didn't have as many out-of-state volunteers. Hartsville turned out to be a town of about 7500 people and with a small college in the town.

We spent the day going in groups of two or three to remind people of the primary, encourage them to vote, and arrange for transportation if they couldn't get to the polling place on their own. We weren't going door to door. Instead they wanted "targeted GOTV:" we had a list of people in a given precinct who they thought would be likely Obama voters and sent us to them. I have to admit I was a little puzzled at times, because in some situations the information was clearly out of date, which was a bit frustrating.

What wasn't frustrating was the result. Personally, we got a few more votes out. I especially remember one woman who thought we were selling something: "We don't want any." Then, when she realized we were from the Obama campaign, she was a little embarrassed to admit that she had forgotten it was primary day, but earnestly promised to go by and vote on her way to work. Statewide the results were great: not the 5-6-7% win the pre-election polls had predicted, but a 55%-27% win and better than expected showings in practically every demographic. (And, he won the county we worked in, Darlington, with 64%!)

Here's where a little hindsight would have come in handy. At about 6:00, the polls were going to be open for another hour, but the chances of getting to much more result were pretty slim. The town Obama organizer asked us to do just a little more, but also understood we had been at it all day and could beg off if we wanted. We also knew that Obama was set to give a victory speech in Columbia, an hour's drive away.

We did "the right thing" and went back out.

We also went to Columbia.

We also got left at the threshold...

...in line about 30 yards from the door when the fire-marshall stopped letting people in. If only we'd left a little earlier, we'd have gotten in to be a part of a raucous crowd and hear live a man who is, in my opinion, one of the most impressive speakers of our time. The speech was great. I know: we listened in the parking lot before embarking on a drive home that ended n Chapel Hill at almost 2:00 am.

While the drive to Columbia might seem futile, it wasn't. I was glad that we got just a little bit of the atmosphere: electric. People only talking about one thing. Thousands of different people, all coming together, a diverse bunch of Americans, all celebrating something great that I hope will catapult Barack Hussein Obama into a fancy new house in D.C. and this country off the awful drifting course its on now and get it moving in the right direction.

Can we do it? Yes we can!

Thursday, January 24, 2008

It's Been a While

...since I've posted. A month and a half, to be exact. It's been a busy stretch, both for me and for Russia. The holidays were here and I have been lucky enough to spend a month with those I love. Now, it's back to school and things are going well, like they say "Time flies when you're having fun." I can't believe that January has nearly come and gone.

As for Russia, well, as you probably know, we have an heir apparent. No surprises, although I was a little surprised that the decision became public as early as it did, months before the March election. It seems like they are aiming for a seamless official transfer of power, without much real change.

Any opposition candidates (Kasyonov, Kasparov, Zhyugonov, et.al.) are finding tough sledding in their attempts to get registered, run, and find air time for their campaigns. I fail to understand why the authorities feel the need to quash opposition when they would win even in a fair election.

Friday, December 07, 2007

Elections

So the Russian Duma elections went off last Sunday and SURPRISE! pro Putin parties won.

Wow, what a shocker.

The real quiz is what will happen with the Russian presidency in the Spring, when Putin is constitutionally compelled to give up his seat in the Kremlin, but doesn't seem ready to give up his power and seat at the decision-making table.

Sunday, November 25, 2007

Free Rice...

...to eat! Not for me, for hungry people in places that need it. All you have to do is answer correctly SAT style vocab questions - and maybe buy something from one of the advertisers.

Check it out: Free Rice.com

Monday, November 19, 2007

Thanksgiving is Almost Here

Happy Thanksgiving to everyone as this most American of holidays rolls around soon. I'm excited to be visiting my big sis in New York City, and that Mom and Dad are driving in from Indiana too. It's going to be Thanksgiving with a twist!

It's hard to believe that a year ago we were preparing for the madness that was our American home teacher collective bid to make Thanksgiving dinner. It turned out pretty well in the end, but most of all I remember being totally exhausted by the time is was over. To all of out there who do it every year, every holiday! Here's to you, preparers of Turkey Day feasts!

In the news, Russian Duma elections are looming closer. The old Duma has adjourned and the current squabble is with the Organization for Security and Cooperation in Europe (OSCE) who typically sends election observers. "Not so fast!" the Russian government says. "We're not going to give you visas yet!"

Oh, how things always stay interesting!

Tuesday, November 06, 2007

Another Killer Fact...Actually a Hypothesis...

...brought to you by my history studies at UNC Chapel Hill.

The other day we were discussion the last years of Josef Stalin's life and his relationship with those around him: largely sycophants and lightweights that Stalin found easy to manipulate.

However, like most things, it's not that easy. Stalin died in March 1953, apparently of a brain hemorrhage, despite relatively good health for a man of his age. While death by natural causes is largely accepted as the true reason for his death, there is a small but significant amount of evidence that someone from amongst his inner circle did him in in order to avoid a gathering purge of the leadership at Stalin's bidding.

It's not hard to imagine. These were men who had seen and taken part in the havoc that Stalin wrought on others, secret police chief Beriia was himself the chief agent of some of the purges. If they felt threatened, it's not hard to imagine the man who controlled Stalin's residences and body guards taking a page from Stalin's own playbook.

I guess it just goes to show you that being an evil dictator has its occupational hazards too!

Thursday, November 01, 2007

November Already!

It's hard to believe that October has come and gone already. It's still very much fall here in NC. Heck, the trees have just barely started to change on campus. It's going to be a beautiful month - made all the better by a big helping of turkey at the end.

On Russian matters, there's about a month left until Russia holds parliamentary elections. There's little doubt which party will win, but nonetheless there is still bickering over allowing foreign observers in for pre-election observation.

On a more personal level, I'm going to be continuing to study Russian in the spring and I hope to have an opportunity to spend six weeks or so in St. Petersburg this summer. It should be fun!

Now for a killer fact update!

Moscow: it's big, but you already knew that. In terms of population, it's got a little over 13 million people. If you toss in likelihood of 1-1.5 million people who live or work there undocumented, it comes out to fully 1/10th of Russia's population. Comparing to the US, it's as if you rolled NYC, LA, and Washington DC all into one and, if it had the same percentage of the country's population, would have about 30 million people!

As it relates to what I've been studying lately, Moscow was one of three main Nazi targets (along with St. Petersburg/Leningrad and the resource-rich lands of the south and Caucasus) when they invaded in June 1941. They reached the outskirts of Moscow, with the closest advances of the Wehrmacht reaching within 40 km of the Kremlin.

Sunday, October 21, 2007

Climate Killer Facts

Since it is fall these days and winter is soon approaching (for some sooner than others) I thought some climate killer facts about Siberia, the region Molly and I visited this summer, are in order.

Two things:
(1) Siberia is home to the place with coldest recorded tempurture, almost -100°F. According to Wikipedia (yeah, I know - I'm taking their workd for it) in January 1926 a temperature of -71.2 °C, or -96.1 F, was recorded at Oymyakon, Sakha Republic.

(2)Farther south, where the Trans-Siberian Railway runs, the climate is much warmer, reaching comfortable temperatures and summers long enough for agriculture. Despite this, the mean annual temperature is still 0°C, 32°F.

The moral, even though it's not a snowy frozen waste year round (I have pictures to prove it) it's still really, really extreme!

Thursday, October 11, 2007

Websites of World Significance

Nope, I'm not talking Google. (Although we all know it really runs the
world.) I was thinking of the White House and it's website www.whitehouse.gov.

That got me thinking: "I wonder what Putin's website looks like?" Well, here
it is: www.kremlin.ru. (Thanks
Google!)

If you want to know a little more about the
physical Kremlin, try this one: History of the Kremlin and
other stuff
.

Here's a Killer Fact: The Kremlin was a symbol of power in Russia even during the two hundred year hiatus during which the Tsars (and ruling Tsarinas) lived in Petersburg. They continued to be crowned in the Uspensky Sobor'(Assumption Cathedral) and to lavish money and talent to update the architecture of the palaces and government buildings within the red brick walls.

Tuesday, October 02, 2007

Putin's Next Move

Putin's Next Move

I'm waiting a while before I'll try to say what this means, but the picture is starting to clear up. It seems that Putin wants to have all of his ducks in row long before it comes to elections. It's not as if United Russia needs his help, but this begins to cement his position for the Post-Putin-Presidency Era. (PPP, if you will.)

Sunday, September 23, 2007

September's Almost Gone

It's hard to believe that September has almost come and gone. School is
going well, but there is lots to do! Reading, writing, researching,
learning Russian are all part of the game. The biggest part of what I'm
learning is historiography, the history of the study of history! As
Molly said, "It's so meta!"

As for Russia, it's still in the news. The latest shakeup is near the top, when Putin axed his PM and replaced him with a surprise, obscure candidate. My first thought upon
hearing that Fradkov was out was that Putin had decided to make his successor choice obvious early by picking one of the two main rivals, Medvedev or Ivanov. Instead we get Zubkov, a bureaucrat and manager from way back in the pack.

Only time will tell what this means for Russia.

Tuesday, August 21, 2007

Finally, an Update from the States!

Finally, as promised, an update from Stateside. After several days of train travel and a stop to visit the Siberian cities of Novosibirsk and Tomsk, Molly and I reached Vladimir. We had twelve hours to say some final goodbyes, repack our things, and gather the stuff we had left behind in a closet at the American Home. (Also: to eat good pizza!)

A middle-of-the-night drive to Sheremetevo and a couple of hours of waiting found Molly and I on separate flights to separate cities in Germany and then to the States. Suffice it to say, we made it safely, but we were exhausted. I've never been so exhausted in my life! As bad as this picture looks, I felt worse!

A whirlwind couple of days in New York City with my sister was followed by a few more days with my parents at home in Indiana. Finally, I arrived here in Chapel Hill, NC last Thursday. I begin my graduate career tomorrow, on the first day of class here at UNC. I'm excited about the chance to take three history seminars and a Russian class at neighboring Duke in Durham, a few miles' bus ride down the road.

Since I'm no longer in Russia, the best I can do is find news and talk a little about what I'm learning. The first installment is about something many take for granted that can never be assumed in Russia: hot water.

Been
There

Wednesday, August 01, 2007

Long-Delayed Update

It's been at least three weeks sense I've had a chance to write anything. Two of those weeks we spent living in a tent in a forest on a hill near Lake Baikal. The other week we've been traveling around in the area and enjoying the beautiful area. This is a place very rich and beautiful in nature, if not always in other ways. I will try to write more and show what I mean with pictures when I get back to the States next week and have more consistent Internet access. Between now and then, we are beginning the long journey home with the first leg of our train trip from Irkutsk tomorrow even1ing. Then end will be a week from today when we fly from Moscow to our respective destinations and families. I'm having a great time and it's been a wonderful experience, but I can also honestly say I'm ready to come home!